I don’t get any warping at all even with large narrow pieces such as wing sectionsĬooling: In general None (except for thick material eg axles, aerials, bridging, etc)Įnclosure: yes (keeps ambient about 38C and fairly even. Skirt is just to ensure the first layer is extruding properly but not strictly necessary. Wingper1: First layer H = 100%, W = 100%, Speed = 100%, No infillīed Adhesion: Glue stick on PEI sheet (sticks like chewing gum in your hair). (if printing at 0.2mm layer height then change the Extrusion multiplier to say 0.86 to 0.87 probably) Wingper2: First Layer height 90%, width 110%, Speed 40%, No infill. It varies a bit with different filament, but as a rule the multiplier is quite a bit lower for PETG than for PLA when doing fine accurate work). Here is what I found better:Įxtrusion Multiplier: 0.98 (this seems quite critical with PETG. I’ve changed a few of the settings for extruding PETG as I found the tiny tubes in the ailerons and elevators of the “Edge” were partially clogged due to over extrusion or over heating. Yes I use an enclosure made from Ikea parts. Next I will print the MkIX spitfire in PETG as well as the new Corsair. So won’t use it again or will have to print very slowly. These temperatures are too much for the Prusa and most home 3D printers.
#Raft hard to remove simplify 3d Pc#
For Hobbyking PC it really needs more than 300C hotend and more than 120C Bed Temp in order to print at a reasonable speed. With Esun PC and Polymaker PC Mac, I used 280C hotend and 110C Bed Temp. For the wings, the Prusa PEI sheet started to lift off the base as well but it corrects itself after several more prints with less harsh materials. The fuselage parts printed ok with 4mm raft with 0.25mm Separation and no warping. A good wide 2 layer raft of 12mm and Separation Distance 0.20mm was needed for wings but still can’t entirely get rid of warping. Have printed the spitfire MkIX in Esun PC, Polymaker PC Max and Hobbyking PC. For motor mounts I always use polycarbonate for heat resistance with nozzle temp 280C to 290C and bed at 110C with Glue stick. I use a modified Food Dehydrator for drying Filament. Its just a precaution I take and it has made a real difference in the quality of the surface finish. So filament will probably have some moisture. Even though we as manufacturers went to a lot of trouble to dry resins (ABS, PP, PVC, PMMA) prior to extrusion, the amount of drying can vary. I worked 25 years in a large German plastics extrusion company. I found I have to pre-dry just about all filaments when opened for the first time. Not sure it was really necessary though.Ģ. This gives a lot torsional strength/resistance to flexing without adding much weight and helps with assembly. For Wings and Fuselage I added 15% infill on the “Wing2per” process for the first 1mm of height. PETG is a little bit too flexible for flying so to stiffen the Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and both stabilisers I added 2% triangular in-fill.
(if printing at 0.2mm layer height then change the Extrusion multiplier to say 0.86 to 0.87 probably)īed Adhesion: Glue stick on PEI sheet (sticks like chewing gum in your hair). Printer: Prusa Original Mk2S with 0.4mm nozzle. Took a while, a lot of reading, but got it right after 2 days experimentation.
Many holes at the start of a layer and bubbles within layers, but after experimentation I’ve had truely excellent results with “X3D PETG” (local Thai product but and any others will do) printing the “Edge”. I had many issues issues at first with PETG. At first tried the ultimate material polycarbonate, then tried PETG. Hi, Living in a hot sunny climate (Sydney AUS and BKK Thailand) I needed to find a more temperature resistant and stronger material than PLA.
0 kommentar(er)
